So, we have done Ireland before, but with friends, Our first trip started in Dublin and around the south, up to Galway and back to Dublin. This trip, we wanted to see more of the north as the Connemara was one our favorite parts of the last trip. We are also brought the kids and Grandma Sasso on this trip.
The kids and us have a saying, we have relax vacations and adventure vacations – this was an adventure vacation!
Day 1 – Travel & Dublin
We rented a car for the trip and ensured the apartment we rented had parking included in its price. We also paid an extra night (the night before we landed) for the apartment so we had somewhere to go when we landed instead of waiting until the normal 3-4PM check in. Typically, you land around 6AM in Ireland from New Jersey, but we were 40 minutes early, and I wanted somewhere to put the girls to bed.
I believe the only way to truly experience Ireland is by renting a car and getting lost. You can set a target itinerary for the day, but exploring is the best part because you never know what you will find. I had rented a station wagon through Europcar so it would comfortably fit all of our luggage.
The flat was a 2 bedrooms in the Smithfield Market and was $1450 for the whole time. We had found it via VRBO as it is tough to find a hotel that will fit the whole family. The location was perfect as it was close to grocery stores, good food, the Guinness Factory and public transportation.
The renter met us around 7am to give us the keys and instructions to the flat. As soon as we got in, everyone went right to bed for a couple hours.
We let the girls and Grandma Sasso sleep longer while we went across the street to get grocery store essentials. At 1PM, we were meeting the Original Dublin Crew for “Free Walking Tour of Dublin.” The group met in the Temple bar at the Old Storehouse – we figured a guided tour would be a good way to get our city bearings, but it started drizzling just as the tour started.
Consequently, after seeing some of the downtown essentials, after about 90 minutes we decided to end the tour early, gave our guide an appropriate tip, and headed to Forno 500 for a good pizza lunch with some nice wine to warm our bodies.
We then took the tram back to our flat and rested for a couple hours. Silvia and I were able to sneak out for an hour to the Cobblestone, which was a 5 minute walk from the flat – this is an amazing pub that had fantastic live music and we highly HIGHLY suggest. Afterwards, we went home and changed and went to the Celtic Knights Dance Show & Dinner (dinner at 6:30 but show doesn’t start until 8). This, although touristy, was a hit with the kids and an easy night out as a family. The show finished around 10 and we took a taxi home for much needed rest.
Day 2 – Dublin – Malahide Castle, Howth
The next morning was Palm Sunday and we attended mass at Capuchin Friary, which was a church a couple blocks from our flat. Friars gave the mass and that was an experience by itself. Thereafter, we changed and got in the car for a 30 minute drive to Malahide Castle, which is a castle (obviously) on beautiful grounds with butterfly gardens and a fairy trail. The Fairy Trail is an extra charge, but they give the kids a map and list of things to find, so the girls were highly entertained while we took in the gardens. The butterfly greenhouse was neat because the girls could hold out their hands and the butterflies would land right on them. Also worth mentioning is the drive to the castle, so many cool houses and stone hedges on the side of the road.
From there, and after a visit to the souvenir store and a coffee, we made a 20 minute ride to the coastal town of Howth and the Beshoff Brothers, which was touted by many as some of the best fish and chips in the area. We got the food to go and ate it at the port watching the boats. The fish was excellent! We then brought the girls to the Howth Market which was an outdoor market with many stands. There was also a pizza place you could buy by the slice and the Gem Howth ice cream, which satisfied them. We then saw signs an oysters and Guinness special at Wright’s Findlater, which was a homerun as we sat at the patio tables and enjoyed the sunlight.
With full bellies, we decided to walk off the food at the Howth Cliff Walk (green route), which was stunning and an easy walk. Going south out of town, follow the road and make a left at the Highfield B&B. This brings you to a parking lot on top of the cliffs to which there is a path on the right that leads you down to the light house or another path to the left that goes along the top of the cliff back towards town.
We all really enjoyed this as the views area stunning and it isn’t overcrowded. The walk is also pretty easy and the paths well defined with crushed rock. It took us about 45 minutes from the cliffs to our flat because of traffic, but an easy ride overall.
Since we did a lot of travelling for the day, it was a “take it easy” night for the girls and Grandma Sasso. When we got back, we all walked to the Cobblestone so the girls could experience the live music and then cooked dinner for them at the flat. Silvia and I left them watching a movie and had a date night at the Stag’s Head, where we had visited with our friends on our first trip to Dublin. As you can see from the picture, the pub’s decor is alone enough reason to go, but they also make fantastic drinks and the people watching is superb.
Day 3- Dublin to Galway
We woke up and went to get pastries. Checkout from the Dublin flat was a breeze and we left the keys in the apartment and took out the trash. We brought all of our suitcases down to the car and parked it on the street while we went to Trinity College for a tour of the library. We had booked reservations through the GetYourGuide app so we could get the first entrance and didn’t have to wait in lines. We had the library without the crowds and were some of the first people up! It was a great experience and Ilenia was almost in tears with the amount of books!
It was about a 2 hour drive from Dublin to Galway and we got into town just after lunch time. Here, we stayed 3 nights at Semple Mill Apartments which was a 3 bedroom apartment in downtown near Nun’s Island. It was $1306 total and worth every single penny! The apartment was beautiful and had a nice roof terrace where you could see the whole town and the ocean/bay. Even better, it had underground parking for the car.
After a little exploring, we discovered one of our favorite pubs in Ireland, Monroe’s Tavern for lunch. The atmosphere was lively, good people, tasty food and a knowledge of Irish whiskey.
We then went to Charlie Byrne‘s book shop, which was a great stop for the kids and a old school book store. As we were walking down the street, we were intrigued by the crowd and good music coming from The King’s Head pub and decided to make a pit stop.
It turned out to be a good choice and we secured a corner booth with access to the window which we opened for some fresh air because the pub was packed at very hot. The music was lively and loud, and we were finally able to find a Murphy’s stout pour – my favorite over Guinness! At any of the pub stops, we had a backpack for the kids with coloring gear, books, and card games. So we really would sit as a family and hang out with no electronics, good music and food. We also would let the girls get different fruit drinks or hot chocolate.
After King’s Head, and as always, we found a Milano’s pizza (which is an affiliate of Pizza Express – our go to in Great Britain) for the kids which satisfied them and is allergy friendly. We then walked the streets exploring all of the stores and ended back at Monroe’s Tavern where we discovered Yellow Spot whiskey. We had enough of stouts for the day and there was some good music playing and the girls were enjoying their new books. So, we asked the bar tender for a whiskey recommendation to which she suggested Green or Yellow Spot. We chose Yellow because it is said to be the smoother of the two. It was so good that Grandma Sasso tried a sip (a true wine lover) and ordered her own on the rocks!
Day 4 – Galway, Cliffs of Moher, the Burren, Kinvarra & Doolin
This was a big day. We woke up fairly early to beat the crowds at the Cliffs of Moher. This is roughly an 1 hr 40 minute drive through the Burren, which is beautiful itself and warranted a couple stops to take pictures on the side of the road. We wanted to start the day at the farthest point and have shorter drives to all of our desired destination on the way back to Galway.
We arrived around 10am and it wasn’t packed. When you arrive at the Cliffs, there is a parking lot directly across from the museum/experience – the parking cost wasn’t too bad, but I don’t recall the exact amount. We went into the museum to use the bathrooms and the kids enjoyed the interactive exhibits. We then walked the trail along the cliff both ways. This was enjoyable, but sooooo windy. We lasted about an hour and then couldn’t stand the cold and wind.
From the cliffs, we drove roughly another 20 minutes north along the coast to Doolin. There, we stopped a wonderful wool craft shop, Clare Woolen Mills, which is on the main road, to purchase some sweaters and hats. From there it was on to Gus O’Connor’s Pub in Doolin which was frequented by many New Jersey, among others, police who hang their badges on the wall. Indeed, we even found a Bernardsville patch, our home town. Gus had some amazing soups that warmed us right up.
After Gus, we drove 40 minutes to Kinvarra where our favorite Ireland restaurant is located, Morans. To our disappointment, and stupidity for not looking before, it happened to be closed on that particular day! Consequently, we drove about 5 minutes to Dunguaire Castle to walk around its little island. This castle looks like it is right out of a fairy tale and it is free to walk around the premises which was fun for the girls because they felt like they were in a fairy tale. There are trails that bring you all around its walls and up to the water.
It was about 40 minutes back to Galway from there with a couple exploratory stops when we saw something interesting. We walked around Galway again that night and ordered in with some wine and reading at the kitchen table so we were ready for the next day.
Day 5 – Galway, Connemara
This was a jam packed day with a ton of adventures! There was some rain in the forecast, so we were a little nervous. We started with a 45 minute drive to the Ireland Falconry School which is located on the grounds of Ashford Castle. This place will take your breath away.
It is stunningly beautiful and the grounds are impeccable. We could have just walked the property for hours and it even has boat tours on the lough it sits, but we were mainly here to become with birds of prey. I want to make a special shout out to Yvonne at the Falconry School. We had many correspondence back and forth and she had some amazing suggestions on other things to do. This was worth every penny. Our guide was previously a school teacher and gave it up after working part time on the property because he enjoys it so much. The girls loved, after initial hesitations, feeding the falcons the rat meat! The tour lasted about 90 minutes and we walked around the grounds taking turns catching and launching the falcon.
Just outside of Ashford Castle is the beautiful little village of Cong. The Cong Abbey is definitely worth a stop to explore for 15-20 minutes. We also stopped at Mc Hugh‘s for coffees and pastries, which were a perfect snack.
From Cong, it was a 30 minute drive to Joyce Sheep Dogs. This was a recommendation of Yvonne. Here you will meet the famous Joe who trains and breeds sheep dogs for people all around the world. You will get to meet the dogs, have a demonstration of their herding abilities, hear some great stores of when Jennifer Aniston visited his farm, and get to meet, feed and play with his other farm animals. Save about 90 minutes to 2 hours for this stop. Also, be prepared for Joe’s whistle instructions! However, the dogs are so well trained it is magnificent, and a wonder, to watch!
Joe told us to stop in Leenaun at Hamilton’s Bar for food. This was about a 20 minute drive and was soooo worth it. The restaurant is located right on the fjord where the mussels are farmed, which made it an easy call for what was for lunch. The bucket of mussels and chips was unbelievable!
Next, we had a 20 minute ride to a famous book store in Letterfrack – Books at One. This is a very old book store with a coffee shop in front. The girls enjoyed looking through their selection and everyone left with a gift. Then we were on to our last stop, in the pouring rain, Kylermore Abbey.
Because of the rain, we did not stay long although this is an often photographed tourist haven. We took some pictures, visited the gift shop for coffee and then quickly hit R344 south which was an adventure. It is a beautiful road that runs along a lough, but you need to watch your speed because the sheep flocks will meander onto the road. We were spent when we returned, but went back to Monroe’s for some dinner, a yellow spot, and a goodbye.
Day 6 – Castle Stay in County Roscommon
We woke up and checked out of the flat which only consisted of placing the keys back in the lock box. First, we drove two hours to horseback riding at Moorlands Equestrian Centere, which is in very rural north Ireland (not Northern Ireland yet). The drive up was fun and brought us through several small villages, some great scenery and some traffic in one of the larger towns. I have to admit we had higher expectations for the horse-riding itself, but the weather wasn’t cooperating and it had rained during our drive to the farm and stopped just as we got there. It made the horse trek to be a little precarious and a muddy mess.
We worked up a pretty good appetite and it turned out our favorite gin distillery was right around the corner – The Shed Distillery This place is a treat for anyone and was only 10 minutes from the farm. They had good food, even better drinks and a real good layout and vibe.
The main event for the day was our accommodations. We splurged to stay at the Kilronan Castle (which actually wasn’t too expensive), so the girls could be royalty for the night. With all of the above, we still managed to get there right after check in at 3. The castle was magnificent and was decorated with castle furnishings and paintings throughout the hotel.
When we arrived, access to the spa comes with the room package. We explored the castle and the several different parlors, the girls had a treat, and Dad went to try the various sauna, steam rooms, etc…. in the spa while the girls walked the hiking trails. We then brought the girls to the pool, which they kept saying looked like it was from ancient Rome — with neon lights! After the pool and spa, we went to the downstairs parlor and had a beautiful room with plush leather couches to ourselves where the girls had hot chocolate and the adults had their choice. There was also a patio just outside that room with a lovely view of the lough and grounds that we sat at for awhile just observing the quiet. We had dinner in the casual dining room and then drinks in the parlor. The girls wanted to do a robe party in the bed room, so we retired earlier then normal to watch a movie and enjoy the view of the moon on the castle from our room.
Day 7 – Belfast
The Kilronan offers a great breakfast with the rooms. I think the girls were the most excited about this because the chefs made them waffles to their liking and the buffet was impressive. Afterwards, the hotel offered a fairy treasure hunt/trail which was a hit. You were given maps find the various mystical homes throughout the grounds.
Kilronan was a hit and I highly recommend it to anyone going near Northern Ireland. Next, we had a 2 1/2 hour drive to Belfast. We were not in a rush because check in wasn’t until 4, so there were some stops in several towns on the drive. In Belfast, we stayed 2 nights in a downtown 3 bedroom apartment. It cost $574 for the 2 nights, but had 2 floors and 3 bedrooms (1 very small) to sleep. The location worked as there area limited apartments/hotels in European cities that will comfortably fit 5 in one place. The flat was located within walking distance of everything downtown and the neighborhood seemed safe. Check in was easy as it the key was in a lockbox that we were provided the code before coming. We had access to a gated parking lot for the car.
Once we settled, we started exploring. Our first stop was the famous Crown Liquor Saloon for some appetizers, Guinness and apple juice. Here, we managed to get one of the booths, which looked like old confession stations! The girls loved the secrecy of it because you can close the door to the booth for full privacy while still getting the sounds of the pub and a view of the beautiful ceiling.
Next, we strolled up Royal Avenue enjoying all of the street performers and the girls found a Zaras, which was a long stop. Regarding the street performers, Belfast has some excellent musicians and it really is a joy to stop and listen. On our way back to the flat, we discovered by happenstance, Hill Street. What a find! There are many places to try on this street, but the Duke of York stole our heart! Words cannot describe the amazement and curiosity this place brings when you walk in to it – it just reminds you of what every American want-to-be Irish pub was supposed to be when it first opened.
After the Duke of York, we tried a couple of pubs for music on the way home. We had forgotten that we were back in Great Britain (Northern Ireland) and no longer in Ireland, where there is a curfew (6 PM) for children to be in the pub (without a separate eating area) and we listened to music until we were asked to leave as a result – it is a guess on the establishment because many do have food, so you don’t really know how the rule will be enforced. Since our fun of enjoying music ended a little early, as a compromise, we ordered food in at the flat and let the girls have a movie night while we had some delicious pork buns from a local Asian restaurant – Zen. This turned out to be a great idea because the place had great cocktails while we waited for the food and was very lively. The food was even better!
Day 8 – Antrim Coast
This was another jam packed day, but something we had read about and wanted to do on our first trip to Ireland. We woke up early because we wanted to be the first people at the Carrick A Rede Rope Bridge so we could enjoy the scenery and have it to ourselves. You must book your ticket online ahead of time and reserve a time slot. We reserved the 9AM slot, which was the first opening and the plan worked as we beat most of the tourist buses leaving from Belfast and Dublin! It was about an 1 hour 10 minute ride from Belfast.
As you can see from the photos, this is a must stop in Northern Ireland. The thrill of walking over the bridge the beauty of the island itself, as well as the trail to and from the bridge is exceptional.
Next, we went about 10 minutes down the coast to the Giants Causeway. As a warning, if you do not show up early here, parking is a huge issue. There are many options in the area, but they fill up very quickly. You are better off choosing the options a half mile way from the museum and walking to the museum parking itself. You can order pre-parking ahead of time, but we weren’t smart enough to time that with the Carrick A Rede Rope Bridge because we didn’t know how long we would be there. Regardless, after about 30-40 minutes of frustration, we finally secured a parking spot on the site itself after frantically booking online. The walk from the museum to the beach (the actual giant causeway) was about 20 minutes and full of tourists – note, it is a large hill. However, if you are daring, you can go far enough out on the causeway to escape the more timid tourists that are only there for the picture. There, you can jump from hexagon to hexagon and enjoy the view.
From the Giants Causeway, we drove another 10-15 minutes to the Deluce Castle. This is the castle where the Game of Thrones was filmed for the Iron Island scenes- i.e., Pyke Castle, the home of the Greyjoys. Supposedly, a scene in Chronicles of Narnia was also based on this castle. This was a very cool stop and made for some great pictures. I don’t think more than an hour is needed as much of it is ruins and the property itself isn’t that big, but it is a must see if you are on the northern coast.
Next, we went another 15-20 minutes to Portsrush, where the 2025 British open will be played at Old Portsrush among several other times before. We came, however, for the food and kid entertainment. Portrush is the Seaside, New Jersey of Northern Ireland with Amusement Parks and boardwalk type food atmosphere. Indeed, we found an indoor amusement park with bumper cars as well as a fun house they loved – all good trade offs for the amount of driving we did! Before the actual games, we convinced the kids to let us eat at the Kraken, where we had some amazing fish and chips, fried oysters, and some delicious beer – all seating was outside and a first come first serve with spots in small covered sheds.
After some rides, boardwalk games, and boardwalk type food and ice cream, we drove 15 minutes to the dark hedges, which was featured as the “Kings Road” in Games of Thrones. We parked in a field for approximately 5 euro and walked the hedges. This, despite the beauty of the trees, I would likely skip as it was not impressive and we felt just over hyped from the movie.
From the dark hedges, it was about an hour drive back to Belfast. We had to pack for departure the next day. So, another compromise, we let the girls pick their last dinner in Great Britain and they chose . . . . . . Pizza Express!
Day 9 – Travel Home
Our flight wasn’t particularly early and it was an 1 hour 40 minutes from Belfast to the Dublin airport. Remember to build in time to gas up your rental. The Dublin airport rental car drop is offsite and you must take a shuttle bus, so build extra time for that as well. Further, once through security, there is a separate USA customs and security, which is annoying. Lastly, if you are a whiskey fan, there is a whiskey duty-free shop where you can get some really good deals and get some whiskeys that are not available in America. For example, Yellow Spot was purchased for 50 euro whereas it is $120 at my local American store.
This was a fun trip that was enjoyed by 3 generations of my family. It is very doable, but be sure to be OK with not sticking to your plan and keeping your eyes open for opportunities along the way.
silandjamestravel 
Posted on November 21, 2023
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